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Soho | Covent Garden | Streets Covered

Just when you think you know Covent Garden you will discover a new restaurant or quiet street that you never knew existed. You could be forgiven for thinking that the area is just a mecca for shoppers and tourists seeking out the street performers in the Piazza or in front of the magnificent Inigo Jones designed St Paul's Church, but you would be wrong - the district is so much more than that.

Covent Garden is the area bounded by Holborn Kingsway, The Strand, High Holborn and Charing Cross Road. As you would expect from such a central location, it has a place in the history books. At it's own centre is the magnificently restored Piazza which was the site of London's most important flower fruit and vegetable market from the 1500's to 1974. Covent Garden market was then moved to a site in Vauxhall's Nine Elms leaving the building free to be renovated and used as it is today as a venue for clothes shops, a small market and home to pubs and bars.

Trafalgar Square

It is this use as a fruit and vegetable market that has given Covent Garden much of its character. During the reign of King John (1199 - 1216) the name Covent Garden was given to a 40 acres piece of land bordered by what is now St Martins Lane and Drury Lane, and Floral St to Maiden Lane/Exeter Street. The Abbey of St Peter Westminster maintained a large kitchen garden throughout the middle ages to provide daily food. And so over the next three centuries the old Covent Garden became the place for fruit and veg.

Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries and appropriated their land - which was eventually given over to the Earl of Bedford. The Earl of Bedford commissioned Inigo Jones to design the area - he was heavily influenced by the bastide style of the market towns. So the Piazza and Church were born. At that time the centre of the Piazza was an uncovered market. The area became a street traders market frequented by foreign visitors. Exotic produce from all over the world was carried in boats up the Thames and sold in Covent Garden. Samuel Pepys made the first mention of a Punch and Judy show which took place in the market square in May 1662. Hence the name for the pub that now occupies the West side of the Piazza building 'The Punch and Judy'

Trafalgar Square

The Duke of Bedford sold his interest in Covent Garden in 1913 and it was finally bought by Beecham Estates, eventually being sold to the Covent Garden Authority. Largely as a result of traffic congestion, using the area as a fruit and vegetable market (London's largest) became impractical and by the end of the 60s the area was in rapid decline. Finally some of the buildings were listed and the market moved to Nine Elms. It was not until the square reopened in the early 80's that it found it's feet again this time as a tourist attraction and shopping centre. Many of today's facets of life in Covent Garden reflect its history: it is the only part of London licensed for street entertainment and there are performances every day of the year except Christmas Day.

Capital and Counties own much of Covent Garden and are always looking to maximize the area's appeal to protect their investments in the area.

Covent Garden Market

Covent Garden Hotel

Almost as important as the Piazza and certainly one of the major draws of the area is the Royal Opera House, this is often referred to simply as 'Covent Garden' and is situated on Bow Street on the site where there have been two previous theatre buildings.. The current building was reconstructed in the 1990's and is home to The Royal Opera, and The Royal Ballet. When the theatre was The Covent Garden Theatre in 1837 the term 'in the Limelight' was coined - limelight was a new form of theatre illumination that utilized heating a cylinder of lime creating a fierce light. The venue is now reckoned to be one of the most modern theatre facilities in Europe.

So, having got the two most iconic landmarks in Covent Garden out of the way what else is there? Let's start with Seven Dials, so called as it is the junction of seven streets and at its centre is a commemorative pillar showing six sundials. The surrounding area bears the same name. Surprisingly for a west end cut through the area does not get a lot of motorized traffic, consequently the streets, Monmouth Street, Earlham Street, Shorts Gardens are usually crowded with people. What traffic there is in these streets is generally slow moving and does not appear to overly influence the area. The current sundial column was constructed in 1989 to the original design. Popular folklore dictates that the reason the dial only has six sundials is that the column itself acts as the seventh when it casts a shadow on the ground.

Trafalgar Square

Seven Dials is a very social place and boasts a Pub (The Crown), The Cambridge Theatre currently showing 'Chicago', a hotel with a charming bar overlooking the roundabout The Seven Dials Hotel with its perfectly placed 'Dial Bar', The Covent Garden Hotel, top high street fashion retailers such as Diesel and Fred Perry rub shoulders with a great street Florist 'The Wild Bunch in Earlham Street. Established French restaurant Mon Plaisir is in Monmouth Street. Earlham Street mixes a street market with retail shops and is always busy. To the east of Seven Dials lies the pedestrianised Neal Street with it's plethora of shoe shops and tucked away out of sight of all this is perhaps one of the most tranquil places to stop and take a coffee - Neals Yard - a small square which was once the site of a dairy. No traffic and an alternative vibe make this a great place to stop and chill out.

Ivy Restaurant

Covent Garden Market

Just a block over from Monmouth Street is West Street. 'The Ambassadors theatre which for many years housed the longest running show in English Theatre - 'The Mousetrap' is here and just over the road are the Ivy Restaurant and the relatively new Ivy Private Members Club. The Atelier de Joel Robushon is also here. Both restaurants are loved and criticised in equal measure - but the Ivy Club is a real winner - so long as you know a member of course.

The cobbled street area to the east of Seven Dials is a shoppers delight. As there is little road traffic everything is easily available, from the street shoe style of Neal St to the underground shopping mall a walk down Earlham St will take you past florists, menswear shops, The Donmar Warehouse Theatre and the Belgian Restaurant - Belgo.

Royal Opera House

Continuing East the next major road to run north to south is Endell Street. This street is full of gems from the vintage clothing store 'Blackout' to the members club The Hospital. The Cross Keys is a genuine traditional boozer with enough floral decoration to compete in the Chelsea flower show. The Rock and Sole Plaice is a genuine fish and chip shop with tables outside for alfresco eating. At the other end of Endell Street is the Oasis sports centre. Moving yet further east and crossing the northern part of Drury Lane brings you to Gt Queen Street home to the Free Masons hall. The huge Masonic hall dominates this little street which over the years has housed famous nightclubs such as The Blitz and Browns and is used as the HQ for The BBC's MI5 series Spooks.

Drury Lane runs from Shaftesbury Avenue to the Strand and is perhaps best known for the Theatre Royal in Catherine Street which backs on to Drury Lane. Covent Garden's theatres are legion - there are at least twenty of them. There has been a Theatre on the site of the Theatre Royal since the 1600's. The present theatre first opened its doors in 1812. Just round the corner in Wellington St is the Lyceum another large and historic theatre - once known as the Lyceum Ballroom currently houses a production of the Lion King. Many of these theatres -especially those with large enough stages and capacity are given over to family friendly west end style musicals such as Oliver and Dirty Dancing,

With all those theatres there has to be somewhere for everyone to eat before and after the show and Covent Garden does not disappoint. There are so many great places to eat that it almost seems unfair to single a few out, but here we go

Joe Allens on Exeter Street is one of the favourite haunts of the 'luvvy'. It is a vast subterranean American style brasserie with a long bar and hundreds of genuine theatre posters and pictures. The menu is reliable rather than stellar - but most regulars will tell you that the burgers are the very best in town, inexplicably these are not on the menu, but ask all the same and you will find that they are on the menu! It's sister restaurant in Wellington Street is Orso serving traditional Italian food. A welcome newcomer to this area in Tavistock Street is 'Cote' - although part of a chain, it's menu is a winner and the service charming - go for the Pissaladiere to start - delicious.

Cafe Koha

J Sheekys Oyster Bar and Restaurant

On the east side of the Piazza you will find Tuttons restaurant - at first this seems to be a tourist eatery, but there is nothing better than sitting outside when the sun shines and watching the day and people go by. This restaurant like Joe Allen is over thirty years old and has been in this position since the market was re-developed in 1974. Café Des Amis in Hanover Place is another established brasserie style restaurant, although recently the on line reviews have been less than complimentary.

Check out Chez Gerrard for a table overlooking the piazza -worth it just for that experience alone although they still do great steaks. If you have a special occasion to celebrate or want to splash out go to Axis at Number One The Aldwych - with jazz nights on Tuesday and Wednesday and a fantastic hotel lobby bar to boot this is worth a visit. There is another restaurant in this building - Indigo.

The oldest Restaurant in London is in Covent Garden. Rules in Maiden Lane was established in 1798. Owning its own Estate, the restaurant specialises in game and English cuisine. A place to evoke the past. In a similar vein is Simpsons which opened as a chess club in 1823. Rather hilariously the restaurant's web site proudly proclaims that it was once frequented by Sherlock Holmes, nevertheless whether or not the imaginary Holmes visited, Simpsons in the Strand remains steadfastly British. Continuing to make a name for itself, Clos Maggiore in King Street is leading the way in 'romantic eating', rather quaintly it also has a dress code - no scruffy jeans or trainers here please.

Seven Dials

Street Entertainment

Still going strong although it is now part of the Hilton group is the Waldorf Hotel in Aldwych a calm and classy place - great to stop at for afternoon tea! After you have had tea at the Waldorf - cross over the Aldwych and take in a summer show at Somerset House which houses the Couthauld Gallery. Once a grand riverside palace, then home to various government departments such as the Admiralty and the Divorce Registry - Somerset House is a magnificent piece of English History. Built between 1776 and1796. In the winter the courtyard houses an outdoor ice rink and in the summer in July it becomes a concert venue.

The London Transport Museum in the southern most corner of the Piazza shows off many of the innovative designers who have worked for London Transport over the years. Since the 20s LT has developed a strong visual identity based on the strength of designs overlooked by Frank Pick the first Chief Executive of LT.

In addition to the Piazza the other principal shopping street in Covent Garden`is Long Acre which runs west to east from Upper St Martins Lane to Langley Street - however this street is full of high street names, and apart from conveniently having them all in one place is not particularly innovative or interesting.

Running parallel with Long Acre and with some great shops is Floral Street. Home to menswear guru Paul Smith, this street also has Nigel Hall, The Sanctuary, Nicole Farhi, Jack Wills, Betsy Johnson, Radley and Mulberry - again all well known names but somehow sufficiently cool to give this street a kind of style of its own.

St Martins Lane is also verging on the chic with the St Martins Lane Hotel, this Philippe Starck designed Hotel continues to pull a crowd, in particular for its bars and the restaurant Asia de Cuba. Browns Bar and Brasserie is also here as is Bertorellis.

Punch & Judy

Street Entertainment

In addition to the bars and pubs already mentioned, Covent Garden has its fair share of pubs and clubs. The Lamb and Flag is the oldest in Covent Garden and can be found in Floral St/Garrick Lane, dating back well over three hundred years in summer the downstairs bar is often rammed. For other traditional English boozers try the Freemasons Arms in Long Acre or the Coach and Horses in Wellington St or the several pubs in Bow Street. It seems that the 'traditional' pub still has quite a foot hold in Covent Garden with an example in virtually all the main streets in the area. If you fancy an alternative - albeit an expensive one- check out the Lowlander a pub specializing in Belgian beers with a large number on tap.

There are language and Ballet schools in Covent Garden and dance schools in addition to the Primary Schools of St Clement Danes and St Josephs.

Mentioned earlier - the Actors Church or St Paul's Church whose east facing portico looks onto the Piazza has been there since 1633. This plain Tuscan-style church looked towards the tall terraces of an arcaded, three-sided square, but all these houses have now gone. It has three other entrances Bedford Street, King Street and Henrietta Street. There is a traditionally run Roman Catholic Church in Maiden Lane - the Corpus Christi. The grounds of the Church offer a temporary haven from the bustle of central London.

As a residential area, Covent Garden is very desirable for anyone with an interest in the arts. The available property will almost definitely be an apartment or flat. It doesn't have much open space, however there are plenty of places to sit and take a contemplative moment. It is so central public transport is on the doorstep. With tube stations at Covent Garden (Long Acre), Leicester Square (Charing Cross Road), Charing Cross and major through roads with good bus services you would not need a car. Waterloo Station is a ten minute walk over the bridge. Very close by is Embankment station as are both sides of the river - the ever popular south bank is no more than a ten minute walk away.

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